Cineversity

Hi. I’m making a video for a cube-type screen(W 600 * D 500 * H 300 (cm)). I referred to the forum post below:

https://www.cineversity.com/forums/viewthread/4761/

This post was very helpful. According to the post, I got a sweet spot position, and rendered sequences like uploaded image.
Now I have to flatten this image sequence. I’m worried about which of the two ways is the best.
One is the method shown in that post, and the other is to use warp effects in Adobe After Effects.

Which method has the least loss of image quality? I have no idea about Cinema 4D’s image interpolation algorithm.

Please let me know which is the best way. Thanks!

Hi silo.artwork,

Please have a look at the file below:
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/JJW6D9hDM5e4hOEghAv71IQFOEn1p0j5aV1U75fXMdF

This is just an idea; test this carefully; no guarantee! This needs a little bit fine-tuning, (It’s midnight here, so I close “shop” now).

Check the Takes! Since the panels are just two rectangular and have no round element, I believe that two Shift-Camera renders will give you the most straightforward way while avoiding moving pixels around. (Which would require otherwise a lot of resolution to compensate for the initial perspective distortion.)

The camera and render settings must match. You can increase the render settings but keep the aspect ratio.

The After Effects v. Cinema 4D question is not easy to answer, as I really don’t know the kind of animation you have, nor what screens and requirements you have. For Cinema 4D, I would avoid any sharpening that introduces edge value changes, especially those that work with negative values. The resolution needs to be at least twice as high as the area in the right upper corner of the screen (in this case!) to be sufficient after the “de-perspective” process.

My best wishes for your project

Wow! Thank you for answering late at night. I have no idea there would be a solution like this.

I don’t know what principle it is, but it’s almost exactly the same as the result of using the UV map.
(However, it seems that fine adjustment is needed by hand. Is there an accurate calculation method?)

Anyway, I’m going to proceed with the final rendering using the method you told me. You’re my lifesaver. Thank you very much for your reply!

Thanks so much, silo.artwork, for the question and your reply.

Yes, to have a fast procedural would be nice. There are two things: to leave a little border around the image, crop it in the post, or do some math. I have to think about that.

With practical Tilt/Shift Lenses, I place the camera horizontally (as in the scene) and then dial the shift amount into the lens until it fits, e.g., with the Canon TS-E 24mm (one of my workhorses).

I think you also used the Camera Calibrator, which is the first and essential step. That position of the camera is crucial. The Film Offset allows keeping the perspective as needed while framing only the needed part.
From there, I made a copy and made the camera look horizontal. I was then rotating (R.H) the camera while Film-Offsetting the view’s the frustum (The camera view rectangle matched the side). A step-by-step process, then fine-tuning.

The render settings need to match the rectangle ratio. The same with the other side, also here (hence the “Take”), the render-setting needed to match.

I hope that a little bit of information helps.

Fingers crossed, I can find something faster and more precise to set it up in a short time.

Cheers

Thank you for your precise explanation.
I’m working on the project using your method.
When this project is over, I plan to study it more. Maybe your method is best unless I make some programming code.

Thank you again for your innovative approach!